Published on January 27, 2014 | by Hollie Bracciale0
UAL fashion grads take centre stage at LC:MThe recent London Collections: Men (LC:M), three days of fashion dedicated to menswear and accessories, was overflowing with collections from CSM and LCF alumni.
From established favourites to ones to watch, it included everything from everyday outfits to arty creations.
The fourth LC:M saw established CSM alumni Alexander McQueen, Christopher Shannon and British Fashion Council’s Designer of the Year Christopher Kane, showcase AW’14 collections with their synonymous styles.
Father and son label Casely-Hayford and GQ’s Breakthrough Menswear Designer Brand Jonathan Saunders were also among the designers.
More CSM alumni appeared behind major labels including Joanna Sykes at Nicole Farhi and Luc Goidadin at Burberry.
New faces with a UAL connection also took to the runway:
- Saif Bakir and LCF alumna Emma Hedlund’s joint label, Common, which specialises in “progressive design with clean aesthetics”;
- Craig Green’s collection of hand dyed garments aims to portray “the contrast of sculptural design, created for spectacle and something more practical, almost utilitarian”;
- Lee Roach’s minimalist approach to AW’14 with his “reduction and repetition” design ethos;
- Nicomede Talavera, who after working with Philip Lim 3.1 and Lanvin, has introduced his own collection of “graphic, texture, contrasts, oddness and details” to the catwalk.
Included in the next generation of design talent for men’s accessories is LCF graduate Roxanne Farahmand.
A graduate of BA Jewellery Design, Farahmand’s collection of contemporary jewellery and accessories is inspired by the construction and deconstruction of the male form and the digital revolution.
First seen at LCF’s 2013 runway, Farahmand has moved on from 3D metalwork to, what is sure to be her trademark, cut off gloves.
LCF alumnus Joseph Turvey, who studied MA Fashion Menswear Design Technology, showed a fun menswear collection at LC:M that was a combination of knitwear and hand drawn printed illustrations in monochrome tones.
Turvey has already been scouted by River Island, for whom he has designed a range set to hit stores this spring. The collection consists of luxe sportswear pieces, statement neoprene accessories and matching jersey sets with a playful pink camouflage.
J.W Anderson, who recently collaborated on a range with Topshop, was another LCF alumnus who has been named as one of the fashion industry’s rising stars.
Kay Kwok, MA Fashion Design and Technology: Menswear 2012 graduate and BA Bespoke Tailoring graduate, Sebastiaan Pieter Groenen also showcased during the week.
Groenen presented his own collection away from the British Fashion Industry venue, at Southard Reid Gallery.
Groenen won the 2012 LCF Collection of the year award for his graduate collection of deconstructed tailoring and sheer fabrics, combining and contrasting masculine and feminine designs.
“We believe that fashion should never be taken too seriously. We also endeavour to sit firmly in the middle of brands that fear creating something different and those which push collections too far.” – Agi & Sam
As the week closed, luxury menswear label Baartmans & Seigel showcased its collection looking at “classic, internally generated masculinity, which travels to an outward, defined aesthetic of individual aspects, fibres, particles; grouping together to form a unity.”
The label was created by BA (Hons) and MA Fashion Design Technology: Menswear 2010 graduates, Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel.
Another design duo, Agi & Sam, were supported by UAL through the Centre for Fashion Enterprise’s New Fashion Venture Programme. In 2013 their designs won them the Emerging Talent Award for Menswear at the British Fashion Awards.
Their designs have “a strong emphasis on entirely bespoke print and humour,” the pair explain. “We believe that fashion should never be taken too seriously. We also endeavour to sit firmly in the middle of brands that fear creating something different and those which push collections too far.”
Throughout the week the Designer Showroom at NEWGEN MEN housed Diego Vanassibara’s AW’14 footwear collection.
Vanassibara is an alumnus of BA Cordwainers Footwear: Product Design and Innovation; his collection is inspired by his “current feeling for texture, warmth and substance; our needs (at least in regards to footwear) for a modern and energetic urban lifestyle and a dose of nostalgia for earthy things.”
The designer has formed a unique shoe construction, which fuses both the Oxford and the Derby in to a single style named the hybrid construction.