Published on February 20, 2013 | by ALN news team

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London Fashion Week: Tue Feb 19

Paul Costelloe dedicated his collections to the GB Equestrian team [Tamara Craiu]

London Fashion Week (LFW) has seen futuristic designs, pastel colours and even a toilet roll or two.

Arts London News takes one last visit to LFW AW13.

Paul Costelloe

Irish designer Paul Costelloe showcased two collections in Somerset House’s Portico Showrooms on Tuesday morning.

British heritage and Hitchcock heroines seemed to be the inspiration for Costelloe, who before the presentation introduced himself and his collections. Costelloe focused mainly on dresses, coats and jackets.

His AW13 collection was reminiscent of ’50s sirens and models wore coats that were finely tailored with statement buttons.

Saturated pastel colours including light cream, baby blue, powder pink, and a soft grey emphasized autumn’s next big trend: pretty pastels.

Soft Irish country music played as the models walked through the intimate setting before classical music was introduced for the second half of the show.

Following his AW13 collection, Costelloe presented a selection of pieces from his menswear Cheltenham collection, part of his AW13 dressage collection.

Dedicated to the success of the British equestrian team at the Olympic Games last summer, the collection was full of classic English countryside-style pieces.

The equestrian inspired collection included traditional tweed pieces mixed with rich reds and bold hues of blue.

Costelloe’s show was a family affair. His daughter was backstage and his close friends and family were front row supporting him. His collection reminded audience members of Britain’s effortless and timeless style.

Maria Grachvogel

Maria Grachvogel’s collection was inspired by bare winter woodland [Tamara Craiu]

Despite being one of the more discreet collections shown at the BFC Courtyard Show Space, Maria Grachvogel’s AW13 offering was undoubtedly chic and sophisticated.

Perhaps one the most elegant and wearable collections presented during LFW, it was evidently popular with it’s audience- including Mollie King and Dame Kelly Holmes.

Stylish cover-ups in floaty chiffon and loose satin were the collections main focus, whilst its tree-like print, the echoing soundtrack and floor sweeping gowns gave it a haunted feel.

Inspired by the quiet calm of bare winter woodlands, the collection was both simple and modern in regards to its cut and texture whilst the use of materials such as silk and wool gave it an element of luxury.

Grachvogel’s use of artistic, intricate prints and carefully composed tailoring gave an otherwise modest collection a striking hint of detail.

Alongside her signature jumpsuits, which were featured in both velvet and silk, Grachvogel introduced an extended knitwear offering including several dresses made from degrade wool.

Oxblood and teal were two of the colours that particularly stood out in a predominantly black collection.

Aminaka Wilmont

As time ticked on at the Aminaka Wilmont show, anticipation grew within the crowd waiting for the jazzy tones to subside and the show to start.

Molly King, from the The Saturdays was ‘FROW’ing it in one of her many outfit changes that day, a navy and cream silk shirt dress teamed with huge heels.

As the lights darkened, drums boomed and the reoccurring monochrome trend of this LFW was back.

The collection started tailored and sophisticated with patterned wrap dresses, high necklines and boxy-silhouetted shirts.

Monochrome pieces featured heavily in Aminaka Wilmont’s collection [Tamara Craiu]

The models sported back-combed, half pony-tailed hair and dramatic dark eyes, which looked fierce as they stomped to Ram Jam’s Black Betty and the urban scratchy sounds of Kavinsky’s Nightcall.

The outerwear featured was powerful with a tough sharpness; a lot of leather was used– both quilted and smooth– challenging conventional jacket shapes that captured both elegance and ‘cool’.

Bomber jacket style shapes were transformed with theatrical oversized collars or sleeves using a mix of textiles with fur and sheepskin.

Inspiration originated from multiverse layering of matter as well as from sculptor Kevin Francis Grey.

Haizhen Wang

Haizhen Wang’s second LFW collection–the first winning the 2012 Fashion Fringe award– was one of the week’s most eagerly anticipated show by fashion editors and critics.

The Chinese designer’s weird and wonderful collection closed this year’s LFW with an array of futuristic and quirky designs.

The 21-look collection featured a series of tailored jackets, tight-fitting trousers, strappy back tops and v-neck black gowns made of materials such as leather and Italian wool.

The predominantly black collection was both architectural and original in regards to its structure, whilst the warrior theme that inspired his debut, was still clear to see.

Quilted oversized puffa jackets were some of the collection’s most striking offerings, whilst stiff, wool capes with red piped edges and biker jackets with oversized collars and zipped panels were also featured.

The collection’s sci-fi influence was evident as a metal body suit brought proceedings to a close.

The model’s eyes were shielded from the sea of smart phones with the use of masks that doubled up as hats whilst stripes were applied on their faces giving them a warrior-meets-Terminator look; summing up the general feel of the collection.

With another offering that was both bold and memorable, Wang certainly seems set to make his mark on the London fashion scene.

Take a look back at ALN’s LFW coverage from the week; Friday, Saturday and Sunday and Monday.

 

 

 

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