Published on February 18, 2013 | by Billie-Jade Thomas and Jennifer Logan

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London Fashion Week: Sat Feb 16 & Sun Feb 17

Ready to wear fall winter 2013 Issa London London February 2013

Issa London’s collection was designed with the traveller in mind [Tamara Craiu]

Starting bright and early on Saturday in the British Fashion Council (BFC) Courtyard Show Space, British label, DAKS brightened up masculine tailored tweed trouser suits with green and silver metallics – a big trend among designers.

Shortly after, Antipodium took guests back to the ‘90s with bouffed up hair and bright pink blusher.

Later through the weekend, we saw fantastic showcases from Clements Ribeiro, Julien Macdonald, Mulberry and more.

Powder pinks mixed with leather and leopard print tailored suits were the true highlight from Moschino Cheap and Chic, who never fail to disappoint.

Who would have thought pink would make such a comeback?

The weekend was truly special with Britain’s most prestigious designers showcasing. Venues were crammed full with bloggers, press and buyers – whilst many a-listers sat front row.

Arts London News headed down to check out what London Fashion Week had in store.

Saturday 

ISSA

Opened by model of the moment Cara Delevingne, Issa London’s AW13 collection was clearly designed with the sophisticated traveller in mind.

Inspired by the rugged home of the native Navajo Indians, the collection shown at the full to compacity BFC courtyard space, was an adventurous step for a label best known for its colourful printed dresses and elegant evening gowns.

Daniella Helayel, who counts Kate Middleton as one of her customers, sent her models down the runway wearing sweeping dresses, thick jackets with shearling and fur linings, knitted jumpers and wide brimmed hats topped with eagle feathers.

Indulgent silk was tapered into slim-fit, printed shirts, whilst feather prints helped give the collection a tribal feel.

Geometric prints, woven jacquards and silk chiffon kaftans were some of the show’s most prominent features in a collection that had a very distinctive free-spirited seventies vibe

All of the dresses, bar one metallic skater dress, were full length; clinched in at the waist with the use of wrap ties and thick leather belts.

The use of layering was prominent in a covered-up collection as dresses were placed over turtle neck jumpers whilst matching tights ensured that there was no flesh on show.

Indulgent silk was tapered into slim-fit, printed shirts, whilst feather prints helped give the collection a tribal feel.

The show finished with an elegant royal blue embellished evening dress, before designer, Helayel accepted her well-deserved applause with Delevingne at her side.

J JS LEE

jjslee3

J JS Lee showcased oversized neutral knitwear [J JS Lee]

Set in the intimate Portico Rooms at Somerset House, Central Saint Martins (CSM) graduate Jackie Lee presented her AW13 collection to a small crowd.

The J JS LEE label launched in 2010 and is known for its sleek androgynous shapes offset by feminine details that utilise intricate and traditional tailoring techniques.

Inspired by native American tribes, J JS LEE combined cultural techniques and incorporated these into everyday wear.

Oversized neutral knitwear featuring deep, rich weaves referenced African scenery and plunge V-neck cardigans were finished with a statement collar.

A pretty pastel palette inspired by fields of flowers in natural environments were shown, but the faded baby pinks and muted mint greens were contrasted with sharp monochrome ivory and black.

Minimal tailoring was seen through a juxtaposition of feminine and masculine shapes. Combinations included simple t-shirt structures combined with late 80s power dressing – fitted tops teamed with flared A-line skirts.

New for AW13, Lee introduced a range of bags. The collection featured three styles; clutch, shoulder bag and backpack, crafted from soft cow-skin leather with metal handles.

David Koma

Model wearing David Koma

David Koma’s pieces were layered in a mixture of fabrics [David Koma]

Bringing the youth quake of the early 1960s to mind, CSM alumnus, David Koma’s AW13 collection clearly looks to the past for its inspiration yet still remains notably futuristic.

Featuring boxy, a-line silhouettes, circular leather collars and high, space-age metallic necklines, the collection stayed true to Koma’s sophisticated and tailored signature style but was adapted in order to create a more daring and youthful look.

Koma stepped away from his usual angular lines in favour of softer shapes. Hems, waistlines, necklines and shoulders were all rounded; creating a curved look that is both feminine and wearable.

The collection featured a series of peplum and skater style dresses and also included several jackets with over-sized and exaggerated collars.

Koma’s palette of predominantly black outfits was injected with bright reds, teal and silvers creating a powerful look. The pieces were layered in a mixture of fabrics ranging from sheer mesh and leather to organza.

Koma’s attention to detail was clear apparent in this collection as it featured leather-bindings, flock printing, linear quilting and laser-cut leather.

The collection was clearly popular with the audience who gathered at the British Fashion Council (BFC) Courtyard Show Space. Koma was greeted with roaring applause when he stepped out onto the catwalk at the end of the show.

 

Sunday 

Temperley London

Hitchcock heroines were the theme at this years Temperley London show. CSM graduate, Alice Temperley unveiled a classic, polished and wearable AW13 collection with a tribal twist.

Temperley mixed stylish work-wear pieces with more detailed evening wear and tribal styling.

Monochrome was a big theme throughout the collection, but later in the show splashes of vibrant orange, blues and greens made an appearance in tribal-style dresses.

The evening-wear in the collection was far more dramatic, with beautiful floor-length gowns with quirky neckline cuts and jewelled detailing hitting the catwalk.

Temperley has recently launched a high-street collection with retailer, John Lewis.

The surprise of the collection came in the form of a heavy tribal influence in the designs, with desert orange, burnt yellow and brown patterned dresses.

Beautiful and luxurious fabrics were used throughout the collection with sixties inspired smock dresses in elegant silk and swing coats teamed with wide-leg trousers, an evidently a big trend this season following the use of monochromatic palettes juxtaposed with bright pop art colours.

Models also wore black leather gloves in various cuts; giving a nod to the idea of the passion and danger portrayed by the women in Hitchcock.

Temperley has recently launched a high-street collection with retailer, John Lewis and has kept the same ideals of wearability but still in the high-end market.

Mary Katrantzou 

Model wearing Katranzou

Mary Katrantzou was inspired by black and white photographs [Mary Katrantzou]

The British-born designer and CSM graduate proved it was well worth the wait, revealing her AW13 collection that was inspired by black and white photography of the late American photographer, Edward Steichen.

The dresses in the collection were covered in photographic silhouettes of staircases, dark forests, bare streets and haunting landscapes.

The pieces were sculptures in their own right and brought new meaning to the words ‘experimental silhouette.’

The colour palette included stormy dark greys, a change in direction for Katrantzou and this caused dramatic effect when combined with architectural construction of the clothes themselves.

The collection opened with asymmetrically cut and draped dresses that incorporated voluminous folding and manipulated proportions. Watercolour style splashes of pale blue started to appear in the photographic prints in trousers, blazers and the long-line dresses.

As the show went on, clothes started to become more vivid and colourful. Then, very quickly, the tone changed again when embossed black leather started to appear.

The CSM alumna ended her show with futuristic metallic contrasted against delicate printed chiffon dresses, which brought the printed images to come to life as models appeared to float down the catwalk.

Take a look at ALN’s LFW coverage from the week; Friday, Monday and Tuesday.

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