Published on February 16, 2013 | by ALN News Team0
London Fashion Week: Fri Feb 15
As London Fashion Week’s (LFW) Autumn/Winter 13 has drawn to a close, Arts London News takes a look at some of the most talented designers from the five-day event.
For the first time, both Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion exhibited during LFW – along side notable UAL alumni – making it one of the biggest showcase of design from the university.
Speaking about the new LCF show, professor Frances Corner, pro-vice chancellor at the college said: “Moving the MA Show to coincide with London Fashion Week is a significant step in the development of our postgraduate offer and signals the coming of age of our MA programmes which are consistently providing some of the industry’s most talented fashion designers and professionals.”
The two colleges were the only schools to exhibit during LFW and of the 77 labels that showcased at the event, 39 were UAL alumni.
Both the CSM and LCF MA shows received the praise of fashion critics and the press alike.
LCF MA Show
The Royal Opera House was filled with fashion critics, students and staff who had gathered to see ten MA Fashion Design Technology and MA Fashion Design Technology Menswear graduates designs.
Maddalena Mangialavori’s womenswear collection was the first to hit the runway. Her show featured tight-weave, crochet dresses with gold fringing on the hems and cuffs. Mangialavori used a neutral colour palette mainly consisting of beige and tan.
Next up was Na Di’s menswear collection inspired by Chinese art and hip-hop music. This interesting choice of inspirations helped to create a street wear collection that was full of colour with contrasting, picturesque prints. Each look was topped off with flower printed snapbacks, giving the collection a cool and contemporary feel.
The collection had the style of gentleman’s club meets mad scientist
Nadia Scullion’s soft and feminine sixties inspired collection featured mixed fabrics in ice-cream shades such as pastel blue, green, cream and lemon yellow. Smock dresses teamed with oversized bags and gym-style sneakers were featured in a collection that was primarily daywear.
Octo Cheung’s collection featured classic menswear, accessorised with bright eyewear, socks and handkerchiefs. The collection had the style of gentleman’s club meets mad scientist, which ensured that it stood out from the crowd. Knitwear was one of the most prominent materials featured in the collection with relaxed multi-hued jumpers casually worn draped over shirts and cravats.
Min Wu’s tie-dye collection was one of the shows most colourful. Panels in pop colours contrasted perfectly with white fabrics, whilst plastic soled platform shoes gave the collection a seventies disco feel.
Antonia Lloyd’s playful surfer style menswear collection featured beach-ready patterns in blue, red and pink. Lloyd applied the print to matching jackets, rucksacks and shorts.
Sian Davies’ elegant collection featured tight maxi skirts in stretchy fabric paired with mustard yellow shirts. The collection was simple and versatile combining patent fabrics with softer materials. The collection focused heavily on contrasting textures and was one of the more minimal on display.
Yi Xie’s womenswear collection was one of the most popular with the audience and critics
Yi Xie’s womenswear collection was one of the most popular with the audience and critics. Made up of bodycon dresses and two-pieces in bold combinations of blue, acid yellow and hot pink, the collection had a psychedelic feel that is both visually interesting and flattering to wear.
Xin Sun presented the last of the shows menswear collections. Featuring tie-dye, wide-leg trousers and fedora hats. The collection also fits with this seasons predicted trend of 1970s glamour.
To end the LCF show, Keiko Nishiyama presented a collection full of floral prints with a hint of sparkle. Inspired by English picturesque gardens, the collection featured heavily printed fabrics and oversized winkle-picker shoes, a definite that the British heritage look has returned to the catwalk.
Famous attendees of the show included musician VV Brown, fashion blogger Susie Bubble and The Guardian editors Simon Chilvers and Jess Cartner-Morley.
CSM MA Show
CSM’s MA show closed the first day of LFW at Somerset House with an impressive show at the British Fashion Council (BFC) Courtyard Show Space.
Eilish Macintosh opened the show. Her work used rope laid over plain black maxi dresses paired with headgear or neck-pieces. Rope featured heavily throughout her collection, and was also used as stitching holding together patent leather jackets and baggy trousers. At the end of the evening Macintosh returned to the stage as she was this season’s winner of the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award by Christopher Kane.
Jaimee McKenna’s knitwear collection included oversized, heavily pleated royal blue dresses.
Contrasting this classic simplicity, Elena Crehan showed a busy collection of oversized jumpers covered in bright yellow and white patchwork fur-like material.
Rachel Hewitt’s collection was designed to enhance and highlight the female body. It featured cut out panels around the hips and shoulders to emphasize the figure.
Some students followed a more futuristic theme in their collection; Sadie Williams created gowns with a science-fiction edge by using rigid, glossy, foil-effect fabric. The dresses were all heavily padded.
Shapes and angles were employed to demand attention at Nayoung Moons womenswear collection. The black and grey colour palette was enhanced with the deliberate use of angular structures appearing to emerge from the baggy dresses.
The MA Fashion course at CSM is the only course that is on the official schedule of LFW each February.
The course is directed by Professor Louise Wilson, a well-known figure in the British fashion industry. She has previously taught a number of prestigious fashion designers including the late Alexander McQueen, Mary Katrantzou and Christopher Kane.
Katrantzou and Kane showed their support for their former tutor by sitting on the front row at the show.
One of the first shows of LFW AW13 was that of CSM alumnus, Bora Aksu with a collection that embraced the contrast of both romanticism and darkness with a gentle neutral palette of powder pinks and greys.
Aksu sent us back to the 1920s with his art deco AW13 collection that included neutral coloured quilted and tented dresses.
Towards the end of the show, hot splashes of fuchsia-pink hit the runway, demonstrating the more romantic side of his signature look.
Statement dresses from smart to sexy, tight corset tops and edgy crop-tops also donned the runway.
He also incorporated heavy textures such as leather and wool, a popular current trend.
With the model’s hair pulled back in elegant plaited up-dos, heavily embellished headpieces framed their faces, along with a slick of hot orange lipstick.
The Turkish born designer set up his label after graduating from the MA Fashion course at CSM. His show attracted celebrity attention with TV presenter Laura Whitmore, soul singer Dionne Broomfield and singer Kate Nash seen on the front row.
Set at the Savoy hotel, Fyodor Golan’s AW13 collection was a definite must-see. Since winning the Fashion Fringe award back in September 2011, the design duo have gone from strength to strength, capturing the imagination of fashion critics and enthusiasts worldwide.
The collection, inspired by the 1967 film Belle De Jour, was both elegant and dramatic, making a series of bold statements as it presented itself to an enthusiastic audience.
Structured, feminine mini dresses, each decorated with their own unique combination of pattern and pleats were seen alongside sophisticated two-pieces and floor-length ball gowns.
The ever-present monochrome trend made an appearance before paving the way for an ensemble of colour in the form of sunset-orange, turquoise and regal gold’s.
One of the collection’s more memorable looks included a completely see-through, high-neck blouse teamed with a monochrome, peplum skirt and a leather waistband. Another notable ensemble was a graphic floral disc shaped mask that covered the entirety of the model’s face with a matching mini-dress in the same bold pattern.
Although the majority of the collection featured a strong element of couture the duo also showcased more wearable, casual options in the form of knitted turtleneck dresses and jumpers.
In a laidback, wearable collection that focused on the use of texture and materials, twin sisters and CSM alumni Annette and Daniela Felder’s offering was effortlessly cool and luxurious.
A romantic colour palette of burgundy, peach and gold opened the collection, followed by an influx of black then an ethereal silver maxi dress brought the collection to a close.
Cigarette pants, velvet wrap tops and retro hats followed definitive seventies feel, whilst the use of contemporary materials helped keep the collection modern.
Contrasting textures were featured throughout ranging from knitwear, to rubber and velvet.
Quirky trench coats in bold colours, quilted pencil skirts and latex straight-leg trousers also featured.
The show was presented in a playful and flirtatious way with models dancing on the catwalk, reflecting the style of the collection.
Celebrity fans including Molly King of The Saturdays, Mischa Barton and Marina Diamandis all sat on the front row.
Set in the BFC Courtyard Show Space, CSM alumnus, Jean-Pierre Braganza’s collection was an innovative combination of cosmic and oriental inspired pieces.
The show started with a series of monochrome pieces each showcasing a geometric star print across the fabric of dresses, jackets and trousers.
Layering was featured heavily throughout with dresses placed over slim-fitting trousers, dresses worn over maxi skirts and oversized cardigans and biker jackets accompanying smart two-pieces.
Staying true to his signature style; constructed tailoring was prominent around the top half of the body, while softer, more classically feminine shapes were seen in the trousers and skirts.
The AW13 collection successfully showcased both feminine and androgynous looks, adding an element of sports-luxe dispersed throughout, resulting in a truly versatile collection.
The collection’s monochrome colour palette was brightened up with splashes of peach and turquoise.
As the show then made its way to Eastern Asia, an influx of kimono shapes, tie belts, picturesque oriental-style patterns, moody grey’s and sunset yellows took over.
Eudon Choi presented his AW13 collection in the graceful Portico rooms at Somerset House. His collection, ‘Varykino’, was inspired by Russia and the strong, dignified and proud women who kept their families together during the Russian revolution.
Choi also continued to explore the idea of protection that emerged in his AW12 ‘Terra Nova’ collection, which was inspired by Captain Scott’s final, fateful expedition to Antarctica.
“For me the real focus was to keep the signature, but the main starting point was actually the Swarovski sponsorship which really inspired the romantic element in the collection like the crystals,” said Choi when speaking to Vogue.co.uk.
The show was opened by a charming band that played instruments from the string family and they continued to play throughout the presentation, setting the vibe for both models and the audience.
The space was very intimate with only four benches, two on each side with space around to stand.
There was not a set palette of colours with this collection, but Choi seemed to focus on bright and dark romantic colours, giving a sense of his past experience with designing male fashion.
Large floral headscarves along with sophisticated wide-legged trousers donned the runway and there were also touches of leather teamed with bright pink polo neck jumpers.
Collaborating with Piers Atkinson meant he was able to gain full attention with the outlandish head pieces. The little balls of fluff on the shoes also grasped eyes as they were extremely quirky and out of the ordinary.
Romanticism and nostalgia was truly injected into the collection, with the use of fabric and colour attracting all eyes to the unique pieces.
Sass & Bide
Aussie brand, Sass & Bide showcased their AW13 collection at St. John’s, a beautiful English baroque church set in Smith Square, in south-west London.
The venue featured large eye-dropping chandeliers and it contained a very relaxed crowd, perhaps as it was the last show of the evening and the fashion craziness had hit everyone hard.
But as soon as the music kicked in and the lights hit brightly, the audience couldn’t be more focused with their cameras in hand.
Many A-listers sat on the front row, including Pixie Lott who was dressed in a black and white structured mini dress.
Caroline Flack, Made In Chelsea’s Millie Mackintosh and Olivia Palmero, who was dressed casual in jeans and biker jacket also attended.
Monochrome and futuristic metallics made a great appearance
Designers, Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton describe their collection as “born out of an exploration into internal structures and mechanics, referencing industrial frameworks and mechanical notions, sensualised by contrasting elements of nature.”
Checked stripes and caged bodices teamed with wide-legged soft slouchy trousers and jagged belts hit the catwalk.
A basic colour palette of white, greys and black were jazzed up with bright yellow accessories, including large clutches and elegant thin strappy heels.
Puffa cardigans with funnel necks and soft grey jumpers tucked into sheer ivory skirts also hit the runway and proved as evident trends.
And of course, monochrome and futuristic metallics made a great appearance – one of the biggest and scrumptious trends yet.
The duo truly showed off their implausible talent with a collection good enough to eat and it could not have ended more specially, when the designers were excitably congratulated by their children who rushed to hug them at the catwalk.