Published on February 13, 2013 | by Henrietta Hitchcock

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Wish-full thinking

Wishbone looks great but the large bar takes up most of the space [Jack Henshall]

★★★

Brixton Village is a foodie haven, and Market Row across the road is on its way to being just as promising. Wishbone is one of the latest restaurants to open there, and it has been long-awaited.

The whole philosophy is taking indulgent junk food and making it as good as possible. The décor looks great although it may not be too practical, with a large bar taking up most of the space.

The atmosphere in here is nice, but if you want real, quality food you might need to look elsewhere.

The menu has two columns of chicken, ‘wings’ or ‘thighs’. The thighs are more like popcorn chicken, crispy and light.

You can choose between Thai style thighs with a tamarind dressing with mint, chilli and chopped shallots, or the ‘salt ‘n’ pepa’ style. These are pretty self-explanatory.

Decent value

The Thai wings were quite dry and tasteless, with the mint, chilli and chopped shallots thrown limply on top. Each of these will set you back £5.50 which is decent for the amount you get.

The ‘wings’ on offer start with Buffalo wings with blue cheese sauce, or Korean-style double-fried chicken with daikon and fermented chilli. Alternatively you can get the chicken shop style wings with their house barbeque sauce. Each of these is £4.50, which is not bad value for what you’re getting.

If you want real, quality food you might need to look elsewhere.

On the tables outside, you’re supplied with a bucket for your chicken bones. However, with all the dressing on the wings you’ll probably want to avoid this place if you’re trying to impress anyone.

You can also choose between a quarter or half chicken, or a chicken sandwich.

The sides include fries, coleslaw and a black-eyed pea salad, though a favourite would have to be the deep-fried mac ‘n’ cheese. Seriously indulgent, it was like a hash brown stuffed with gooey pasta and cheese. The only thing that really ruined this was the fact it cost £4.50, as much as the wings on the menu.

With a decent drinks list and great sours, if you fancy some average chicken accompanied with a nice enough drink then this is the place for you. If you want to eat food that will leave you blown away however, it’s worth the two minute walk up to Brixton village to find something a little more exciting.

‘Wishbone’ 12 Market Row, Brixton, SW9 8LD

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